Thursday

Great after-work surf today

Now that daylight savings time has made surfing before work a bit challenging (at least for the next few weeks), the after-work surf is where it is at. I snuck out of work at about 4:20 and headed to Grandview. When I first got there, I was disappointed. It looked WEAK and tiny. But, then a set came in. Not big, but rideable and looked like it had a bit of power due to the low tide.

I was glad I went out. Between 4:45 and 5:45 there were only about 6 guys out max. For a while, there were only 4 of us. I caught about 10 waves, and a couple were pretty good. In fact, I almost had a little tuck-and-cover barrel, but the wave changed its mind. (On a cautionary note, there was a lobster trap right beyond where the sets were breaking. It didn't pose any danger, but if the waves pick up a bit in the next few days, as is predicted, it might be something to be on the lookout for.)

When I finally went in at around 6:00pm, I saw some guy with a 4-foot alaia heading out. He had some swim fins, so it looked like he was going to ride it prone. The board looked like it might have been redwood, so I wonder if it was homemade? Anyhow, I didn't get a chance to ask him as I needed to get home quickly.

God bless Grandview. God bless Leucadia.

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